Tag Archives: Italian Food

Sicilian Adventures Days 6-8

The final post of the Sicilian Adventures series confirms one very important point. Alcohol seriously reduces levels of productivity. The first 5 days of the trip involved a variety of cultural exploits. At one point, I was seriously concerned that I had completely metamorphosed into a culture vulture. Churches, Roman ruins, debates over the European Union and a fondness for Pecorino cheese and olive oil had almost meant that my own mother would have ceased to recognise me from the person that had left. Fortunately, Taormina ensured a return to form and my true colours came out. I’ve been on any number of ‘boys holidays’ over the years – but I don’t think I have ever matched the sheer volume of alcohol that we drunk in these final three days…

Our first night saw us visit a restaurant that the concierge at our hotel recommended. It was unfortunately less Italian trattoria, more Bratwurst bar as it seemed to be aimed solely at Germans. It was also slightly disconcerting that a small child walked out the restaurant half way through our meal to vomit on the pavement outside. Fortunately we escaped unscathed and headed into town. I had looked online before we visited to find out where the happening places were in town. One name that came out was ‘Deja Vu’. Despite sounding like the sort of nightclub that would be normally based in Watford and play UK Garage, it was quite a cool venue that played lots of classic music – very guilty pleasures-esque. It was there that we discovered the drink of the holiday – named ‘Il Padrino’ – a heady mix of whisky and amaretto – no mixers. Things got a little bit hazy after the 5th.

Day 7 was spent sweating. A lot. And generally feeling unwell. I had been looking forward to some sunbathing all week and now when finally in the glare of the sun, felt decidedly unwell. Being troopers we all pushed through and prepared for a meal at Ol’Oragio.

Eating at Ol'Orogio - Suitably Cheesy pose

Eating at Ol'Orogio - Suitably Cheesy pose

This was probably the best meal we enjoyed in Sicily. Fresh anchovies on toast, bresoala and tuna, sea bass and salmon carpaccio followed by fresh fish the size of my forearm washed down with ‘Casa LJ’, an amazing Sicilian Chardonnay that flew in the face of those who say that they don’t like any Chardonnays. With our alcoholic appetite whetted by multiple Limoncellos, we moved to déjà Vu via flaming B52 doused in pure alcohol to set them alight. Deja Vu saw more terrible dancing and lots of fun. Whilst we thought we were a cross between John Travolta and Michael Jackson – the photos tell an entirely different story…

Day 8 was again spent sweating. Lots. There was not a cloud in the sky for the entire duration of our stay. Perfect for after 12 hrs sleep. Less good after 4. Somehow it is easier to get over hangovers when on holiday and we managed to gear ourselves up to what was the cultural highlight of our trip – watching Jose Carreras at the Taormina Amphitheatre.

Jose Carreras at the Taormina Amphitheatre

Jose Carreras at the Taormina Amphitheatre

It was an amazing experience. I’ve been to the opera and ballet in London and have enjoyed it on occasions and been bored on occasions. In London, going to ballet and opera can feel really elitist. This felt more like going to a  football match. There was a sense of tribalism as we walked up the hill to get to the amphitheatre and a sense of expectancy. This was after all, one of the greatest tenors that has ever lived. And he delivered. He obviously isn’t what he once was…but the setting and the occasion combined to deliver an extraordinary experience. I’ve always been more into dance music or rock music and turned my nose up at classical music. More out of ignorance than anything else and this made me really rethink…

 We set off the next day to return to England via Catania. Returning…to the cold…to the rain…and to swine flu… all I wanted was to live in Italy

 Over and out…

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Sicilian Adventures: Day 3

Today has seen about 300k covered in the trusty Fiat 500. The route saw us head along the northern coast to Erice via Trapani…then along the southern tip to Selinunte before a final stretch to Agrigento.

Erice is a medieval town where Daedelus (minus Icarus) apparently landed. It is very quaint and there is an amazing view as it is so high. That’s about it though and after some stuffed ravioli and a quick mooch around-it was back on the road to Selinunte.

Selinunte is a pretty special place with amazing Greek ruins. It is pretty amazing to see how they could create such huge monument smore than 2000 years ago. It was definitely a long day in the car though. Selinunte was a good couple of hours from Erice…and then the trip to Agirigento took another couple of hours.

Agrigento looked a pretty grim place as we drove in and I feared the worst when we were stuck in traffic jams past McDonalds and other low grade establishments about what our hotel might be like. Hotel in the end was not really the right word as the place called ‘Fattoria Mose’ was a stunning bed and breakfast tucked into the hills. Check it out here:


All the guests eat together at night and are served tradition Sicilian fare. We enjoyed meat and potatoes, aubergine, fresh ricotta, pecorino with chilli and pepper and an amazing pear tart  covered in chocolate sauce alongside ice cream with grated pistachio.

Throughout and after supper we tucked into some fantastic red eand discussed a diverse range of topics with our hosts from how they make olive oil and cheese, to the effectiveness of the European Union – through to alternative energy supplies and the Mafia. This was getting to grips with the real Italy and a welcome twist to our adventures.

Tomorrow, we check out the temples in Agrigento and then head along to Syracusa… More to come

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